Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Cleanser Confidential





When it comes to cleansers, there is such a vast array to choose from, with different types for different skin concerns, and a plethora of varying ingredients to sift through. With the world of information available to us on the internet today, you'd think choosing the right cleanser for you would be a piece of cake, but it only takes a quick Google search to realise that it's just not the case. Bombarded from every angle with different opinions and pieces of advice, it's difficult to know who to believe, making the whole thing a bit of a minefield, but with a bit of time and effort, there are some trustworthy sources to be found, and it's possible to filter out all the marketing jargon and get to the truth. Add to that a bit of trial and error, and you're well on your way to finding a product that your skin is going to love.
Having previously been blessed with normal skin (now combo with hormonal breakouts! Yay), I've been through the mill when it comes to trying out cleansers, and have built up quite a little collection. In doing so, I've definitely learnt what works for me and what doesn't, and being an avid researcher, I've picked up some invaluable hints and tips along the way. I am by no means suggesting that I am an expert on the matter, but I thought it was about time I shared with you what I have come to take as gospel when it comes to cleansers (thank you, Caroline Hirons!), as well as taking you on a little tour of the different types in my collection and the purposes they serve. There really is something for everyone, so whatever your skin type, I hope you will see something that tickles your fancy. (If you are an oily/acne-prone skin-er who uses gel cleansers in particular then you might hear something you weren't expecting in the final section!)

If you haven't heard about the Emma Hardie Amazing Face Moringa Cleansing Balm by now then frankly, where have you been? It's taken the beauty world by storm over the past few months, with cleansing balms becoming the ultimate must-have product for all skin types. While they might not suit everybody as a morning  cleanser, they will generally do the trick for anybody when it comes to removing makeup in the evenings - you can always follow up with a second cleanser if you are worried that it might be too rich for you, and if you have problematic or congested skin then keep an eye out for the ingredients list and go for one that doesn't contain shea or cocoa butter, which can be comedogenic (pore-clogging) for some.
The Antipodes Grapeseed Butter Cleanser looks exactly as it sounds, and is warmed between the fingers before being massaged onto the skin in small, circular motions. This has quite a pleasant herbal scent that is almost menthol, and really does melt off all your makeup in one fell swoop. Unfortunately for me, I neglected to notice that this one contains coconut oil, something I know full well that my skin won't tolerate, so inevitably it ended up breaking me out. Don't let that put you off though, as for many, coconut oil does absolute wonders for both skin and hair.
As for me, I've already got my eye on a couple of other balms worth trying out - namely the Elemis Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm,  Elemental Herbology Purify and Soothe Facial Cleansing Balm and the Ren No.1 Purity Cleansing Balm.


Cream cleansers are great for normal to dry skin, but it's wise to keep an eye on the ingredients in them if you've got slightly oilier or more blemish-prone skin as they often contain botanics and essential oils which may not suit you best as they can be comedogenic. If you haven't been living under a rock for the past couple of years, then you probably will have heard of the Liz Earle Cleanse and Polish , a product which has paved the way for a whole host of new hot cloth cleansers, and one of the best I have come across is this one, by Tropic. I find the ritual of massaging a creamy, herbal-scented cleanser into dry (not damp) skin, before removing thoroughly with a muslin cloth soaked in warm water so relaxing at bedtime, and equally as invigorating in the mornings - so much so, that hot-cloth cleansers have changed the way I think about my skincare routine entirely.
RecommendedPai Camellia and Rose Gentle Hydrating CleanserAntipodes Grace Gentle Cream Cleanser (great for sensitive or problematic skin).

Milks are often recommended for dry or sensitive skin, but that doesn't mean that they are off-limits to everyone else. Often, though, milks can be so light that it is difficult to ensure that every last scrap of makeup has been removed, so some might say they are a better option for your second cleanse. The Elemental Herbology Bio-Cellular Super Cleanse, however, is much thicker in consistency than traditional milk cleansers, and does a fantastic job at leaving my face feeling clean, soft and smooth. As an added bonus, it also contains apple AHAs, which are great at encouraging cell turn-over and in turn, keeping blemishes to a minimum. This little gem is my current go-to evening cleanser, and my skin really seems to get along with it well.

Although this one gets a category of it's own, I must admit that it's the only one of it's kind I've ever stumbled across. Recommended for problem (blemish-prone) skin, this is a thick, creamy cleanser with a slightly denser consistency, and smells exactly like a clay mask. This is a great one to use as your morning cleanser (as I do) if you do suffer from blemishes, breakouts or oiliness - it won't remove makeup, but it will leave skin feeling fresh, clean and comfortable with it's purifying, anti-bacterial formula.

Now, I'm going to be honest from the off here: I really don't like this cleanser, and I bought it only because I found myself in an emergency situation, which involved having nothing to wash my face with and no access to anything I would usually go for! My skin really did not get on with this at all, and I definitely will not be reaching for it any time in the future.
 Traditionally, gel cleansers have been recommended for people with oily or acne-prone skin, and to this day they are still touted by many brands as being the best thing to use for this skin issue. However, the reality is that most gel cleansers on the market contain strong chemical detergents such as Sodium Laurel/Laureth Sulphate to make them 'foam' (the LRP Effaclar included). What's the problem with that? Well, have you ever washed your face and afterwards felt pleased with yourself because your skin seemed to be so squeaky clean? It might seem like a desirable result, but actually it couldn't be further from it, as it means that you have stripped your skin of all it's natural oils. The result? Your skin will over-compensate by producing excess sebum, putting you right back where you started, and if you've got any visible blemishes then you may well find that the SLS chemicals only irritate them further. 
However, this is not to say that all gel cleansers are bad - brands like Ren, for example, offer some lovely light gels which are sulphate free and won't strip your skin of the essential oils it needs.
RecommendedRen Mayblossom T-Zone Control Cleansing Gel (combination skin), Ren Rosa Centifolia Cleansing Gel (normal skin), Ren Hydra-Calm Cleansing Gel (sensitive skin).

I hope you've enjoyed having a little nose through my cleanser collection, and perhaps learned something new. If you are already quite clued up on the subject then do let me know your personal favourites in the comments below, as I'm always on the look out for new gems to try.



xx

14 comments:

  1. You have a great cleanser collection! I'm a big fan of balms at the moment. I know of one other clay type cleanser, which I am using at the moment as my morning cleanser, it's from Bravura London and called Volcanic Mud Cleanser.

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    1. Why thank you :) The Bravura one sounds interesting, I'll have to give that a go. I am finally planning on caving and buying the Emma Hardie balm, but now that I've made the decision it's out of stock everywhere!x

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  2. Amazing post. Really getting into posts like these! I still really want to try the Emma Hardie! Must save up and get my hands on a pot. I'm just scared it won't work for me and I'll have forked out for nothing! xxo
    theedgeofbeauty7.com

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    1. Thanks lovely, I enjoyed writing it as I'm a bit of s kincare junkie! Ha. I know what you mean, haven't tried the EH yet myself either, which is why I didn't include it in the recommendations, but I've now decided it's time to give in, so fingers crossed it'll live up to our expectations xx

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  3. Hmm the Antipodes sounded great until you mentioned it has coconut oil - don't want to risk it. Aurelia's cleansing balm is great, but a true beauty addict goes that extra mile to keep looking for the better product, and that little voice in my brain just keeps telling me I should get the Emma Hardie one. That voice and a gazillion beauty bloggers. x

    Raves 'nd Ramblings - I'm also on bloglovin'.

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    1. Yep, same! The Antipodes one might work well for you though as I know of so many people who swear by coconut oil. xx

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  4. Great post hun! I really want to try the REN Clearcalm Cleanser xx

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    1. Thanks Sasha, I'd really recommend it for mornings, and it's not too expensive compared to a lot of the others, either. xx

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  5. Agree with Sasha above Mel - great post - I was glued to it! I am slightly addicted to my Emma Hardie at night but do like the sound of the Ren purity balm? I love my Elemis Melting Cleansing Gel in the morning but again - the Ren Hydra-Calm sounds good! xx

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    1. Thanks Jenny! There are so many lovely options, aren't there - shame they're all so pricey!xx

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  6. Some great picks. I am loving the Superfacialist Rose Cream cleanser at the moment. x

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    1. I haven't tried anything from Superfacialist yet, have heard so many good things though. xx

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  7. I adore the Ren Clay Cleanser, it is such a lovely product :)
    Amy x
    A Little Boat Sailing

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    1. Yep, another winner from Ren. It really takes away any excess oil in the mornings. xx

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